Відео

This happens when one or all of three things happens. 1) Stator is going bad 2) RR going bad 3) One of the 3 phase is intermittent Hard wiring in the stator connections is the best way to resolve this issue. If after hard wiring the melting still occurs, then you know its time to replace the Stator or RR.. test both. Just an FYI a stator can test good but still give you problems like this, Happen to me not to long ago ..

That is the job of the T-Tap

Sorry to hear that brother.. I find this a bit Odd since I haven't seen anyone who's watched this 3 part series state anything about damaging their STPS in any of the comments.. So, Just a recap on the series: 1. Dealership Plug location & Mode 2. Removal/ Disassembly/Soldering & Proper reassembly of STVA 3. Permanent fix (solder in wires to the main contact points) You have to remember that these videos were made over the course of what, 7 year's, and after a few times of fixing and repairing finally arriving to this solution where I/you wouldn't have to do it EVER again. Part two is where you find the information you are describing (setting the cog gear in the STVA) which is posted in the cards that flash in the top right corner. Not sure how I could get anymore clearer then that bro. That video was super long. Maybe they just didn't see that video.

That I don't know brother, never worked on one. BUT if you're bike is water cooled then just following back the hose to the engine block and that's should bring you to the bell inlet. Remember some bikes/atv's maybe air cooled and you may not have.. so do your homework. Sorry I couldn't be much more help.

Applies to all motorcycles that use this type of stepper motor to actuate the butterfly movement. Including the version with he pig tail.

You did what?!?!... Brother you may have just ended your engines life... Your talking about two entirely different engine ratios.. depending on how long you ran with the 600 ECU the timing difference alone should have killed you valves.. But with that said I don't have enough information as to what your have done and why you put a 600 ECU in in the first place...

@@TheChemistDIY my bike is a gsr 600 but the engine broke down so i bought a 750 engine to replace it and it sparks fine just that alot of misfre and backfire

Well to be honest, if your not seeing any advers readings from your spark plugs then your bike is running as it should. Remember, black plugs means to rich and white plugs means to lean.... the sweet spot is the brown eye..Ooops... ment Brown color.. tehe. I added my PCIII because the bike was running really rich and fouling my plugs.. I would get back from a ride and stink like exhaust, not to mention I could smell the extra fuel being spent during my ride. I added the PCIII and switched to copper plugs and that fixed everything... copper burns hotter. But if you feel you need to tweak, then you may just want to place all levels at the ZERO mark, This is DJ version of stock a stock setting.. But again, read your plugs.. that will tell you what direction you need to go.

@@TheChemistDIY 😂😂😂😂loved the brown eye part. Yeah going to my plugs is a lill hard on my bike, but previous plugs have been black soothy dry. I did however make Low to 0, medium to +1 and high was already at +1. So I will try the setting and see, and also asked dynojet to provide me with possible best tune on their website by giving them info about my bike if not😁 I just want it smoother and use stock fuel or a lill lower, and dont need more hp gain really😂 Thanks again for the video. I loved it and helped me a lot

If you applied a nice thick coat you should be able to just peel it off, like the skin on the bottom of your feet 😂

Bypass the kickstand switch by inserting a wire into the green connector and jumpering.. tape down the wire and ride like that for a few days and see if the bike throws the same codes at any point.. if not then your kick stand switch is bad.. you can leave the wire in but just know that you will have no warning of the kickstand being down and could result in a accident. To have all 4 injector codes thrown at once means that there was power interrupt to your your fuel delivery. Aside from the fuel pump the only other real thing that cuts off the fuel is the kickstand and kill switch.. both are a safety feature. You may want to check there.

I have to say my experience with this kit and it's manufacturer have been spot on. To date my kits have held up pretty damn well., the paint shines flawlessly with no peeling or cracking. Also, notice I said kits and not kit and thats because Ive made more then one purchase of a full fairing set, the prices are fair and I have faith in the quality of their product after my first purchase. But I just want it to be known that it hasn't been the case with everyone. There was one individual on here that reached out to me complaining how they messed up his order with improper paint scheme, misspellings in his "painted in" tape set.. so if you do go with them, always confirm your with picture proof that you are satisfied before shipment...

@@TheChemistDIY love the reply, thanks ! Mine is just plain classic black gloss/mate so I dont think its possible to be messed up 😅 Current Chinesium have chips missing from the air intake holes, sides of windshields cracked and chips of paint missing from the corners where tail sides touch the glossy part. All I m afraid is of there will be the same issue. I ve found sets sold for 350 but I'm willing to give even 1.000 if a brand doesn't have fitment and paint issues like the one I use atm

Well that's not very descriptive if you're looking for a solution bro.. the same can be said about dropping a bike on the freeway busting 80.. lol. At any rate, if your talking about knocking the bike over at stand still park or at a red light tip over then likely this Video should fix your issue.. chances are that top triple clamp is binding do to the bar end contact with the floor and just needs to be realigned.

Can it? Yes.. but really anything can be said to do the same about any component on the bike. You have to look at things in the broader sense: A popular explanation of how a four stroke engine works is: Suck, squeeze, bang, blow. The engine sucks in a mixture of fuel and air, then squeezes it together (compresses it), then it burns / explodes that with a bang, and finally it blows out the exhaust. So what part does the TPS do.. well it's part of the SUCK because without the correct air intake the bike is not going to start. The TPS(s) controls your butterflies which allows the correct amount air to come in during start and ride. All this is being controlled by your ECU "Mapping" which is basically like a receiver.. collecting data from its sensors (sensors), comparing it to a list (map), and then sending out what you need to keep the bike alive. During the SUCK you also have to have the correct amount of fuel. Without fuel you won't get to BANG.. SPEAKIN OF BANG! .. what lights your fire 🔥.. yup... That's right, Spark! Without a healthy flame You're basically trying to light a firework in the wind with a wet match stick.. not going to happen.. Probably not the answer you want to hear but when you put all those principles together You get an idea of what you need to check in order to get your bike to turn over and run.

8mm

Any type of wire that's used for say breadboarding circuit boards...22 gauge and above I think should cover it.. Don't quote me on that but kind of use that as a reference point

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There is no 12 volt power cable.. this is all ground. connect a wired to any ground location.. the whole bike and all its bolts are ground.. you can even get ground from the negative side of battery if you want if you feel more comfortable. this ground wire connects to the top leg of the switch as shown in the video (Non- Gold Side if your using same switch) The center leg of the switch connects to your T-tap at the fan. All your doing is providing ground to the fan.. it already has 12v from elsewhere.

Aahhhh i seeee!!! Nice thanks i should try this! 🤙

@@dinkelone yes!..its one mod that is a must have for the hot summer.. the duel fan mod too!

@@TheChemistDIY Yeah my fan dosent work right now, but if i Connect it straight to the 12v battery it works, somebody had a switch on it before and the manual switch not working, and the fan does go on by it self either, so i try to fix it but i cant find why its not working 🤔🤔🤔 but i have a gsxr 750 2001 .. its the same with ground on both? Like in your video?

If your asking if the TPS and the STPS are the same... Yes they are. You could techanlly swap them and it work just the same after setting the correct placemement.

@@TheChemistDIY sweet yeah cause I just bought the one that's on the top still fi and the red light is on I positioned the one on the bottom to where I got the line in the middle everything is still on so I'm thinking that ones bad I did have this weird noise when turning the key on coming out of the one I replaced but that noise is gone sounds better but wasn't sure if I could buy the same sensor I just bought and use it for the one below

​@@mackenzieharmon826what code is being thrown by the ECU?

@@TheChemistDIY it was c29 but I put that first sensor in and now it's c00 with the paper clip but the fi and the red light is still on

@@mackenzieharmon826 it shouldn't be possible to have a FI light on and code that reads nothing wrong (-C00).. try pulling the battery off for a few minutes and reconnecting... yes I know the ECU doesn't hold power when the key is off.. but then again you shouldn't have a FI light on with code of 00.. lol.

Removing the fly's doesn't fix the C28 code in this instance, thus leaving the bike in limp mode. Now if the C28 code wasn't present and you just wanted to remove the fly's for more top end and laggy low end.. then yes, that would work.. in that case you might as well just remove the STVA all together and purchase the STVA eliminator.

Other two troubleshooting things you may want to look at is the clutch switch and side stand switch if the bike is not cranking. Both can be bypassed with a wire into the connectors to diagnose.

0:05 If the battery dies after riding and it was fully charge then You're running off battery power and the two other components of the charging system has failed. That would be your RR and Stator. Most of the time the RR is the culprit. I would perform a diod check on the RR.. and this test on your stator. I would also visually inspect your Stator for burnt discoloration on the coils.. usually a good sign it's time for a new one. One quick and dirty way to see if youret running off batt power is to start the bike and disconnect the battery.. if the bike shuts off then you know youre running off batt power and one OR BOTH components of the charging system isn't working.

@@TheChemistDIY An update as of right now. There was a recall on 08-10 ZX10R. So I called my dealership and indeed the recall is still open for a Voltage Regulator (whatever that means). So it has been ordered and they’ll let me know when it gets here so that they can fix it and go from there. In your book, does this sound right? Voltage Regulator does that translates to the stator or the RR?

@@klachi7 So RR is short for Regulator Rectifier or Voltage Rectifier. How your charging system works is like this... The Stator is like your altinator if it were in a car.. Through a spinning hub and magnetism, it creates AC voltage. That AC Voltage needs to be coverted into DC to run the bike, its electrical components... and charge the batt . This is the job of the RR.. it takes the AC current and converts it to DC or direct current. Not all the voltage that is "Rectified" is need tho, and some of that excess voltage is dissipated or "shunted" to ground.. All this work causes the RR to get really hot and If the RR is not in a cool location where it gets the most air flow, it will fry itself. For this reason I have moved mine to the front of the RAD...The 04/05 GSXR is well known for killing RRs because of where Suzuki chose to put it, under the back Cowl... hope that helped you out

@@TheChemistDIY good stuff bro’ thank you! I went through the recall for my 08, and they tested it and it’s charging now. After all I don’t think it needed a stator just the rectifier! I still haven’t ridden it as much but time will tell if it’s 100% fixed!

​@@klachi7awesome, good to hear your up and running. One quick note before I let u be. One very good investment you are going to want is VISIABLE voltage meter located somewhere on your dash or bars. I can't tell you how much this has saved my ass when it comes to charging issues. If the volt meter is not displaying 13.8-14 volts during your ride then you know something is wrong and you need to get home QUICK!.. at about 10 volts left in the battery, your bike is going to shut off leaving you stranded.. This just happened to me the other day but because I was able to see the remaining juice left in the batt I knew how far I could ride to get me closer to home and Park in a safe area to where I could get towed.. yes it was a stator issue.. if not for that I would have been stuck on the freeway.

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@@TheChemistDIY thanks, i' ve already take appart mine, but can not assembly back those internal white switches, I wonder if those couod be found , to just solder them back...if not, Im buying the complete switch set..thanks again.

Well, this is a very old video and set. There ok if your on a budget and really need something to get you by. They have their issues like having to clean the buttons which I have a video on. They lasted for a few years but nothing like the OEMs. Those are maintenance-free. If you're not in a rush, I would say hold out and get yourself some EBCs or pickup a used set with some life on them from eBay.. again they may have changed over the years and could be better now.. but currently I still have a set but are not on my my bike because I did grab a used set of OEMs off eBay which I couldn't beat the price.

Hell no.. if the screws come out they fall into the engine casing .. that said the stator also falls into basket that's spinning at a 1000 revolutions per second. Talk about a bad day!

got it man! lastly, how did you manage to fix it? got any vids around? btw, u earned a sub! cheers!🎉

​​@iamcharles2286 thanks for the sub. There's nothing special you need to do. Just as the video says, clean out the metal shavings, replace the screw if yours was damaged like mine. Your local big box store should have a nuts n bolts section that you can take one their and match up. But most importantly, when you reassemble, be sure to use BLUE loctite to keep those screws from backing out.. you wont have anymore issues after this. I've posted an Amazon affiliate link below to the product if your unfamiliar but you can get this at any automotive store. amzn.to/49YqgSs Lastly, if the screw(s) have been shaven down, you are going to need to perform an oil and filter change and be sure to clean up the magnetic drain plug. It will no doubt have collected all the fine metal shavings in your oil and you don't want that floating around in your new oil. If yours was really bad like mine was, ride the bike for a few days and flush the oil again. You don't want any residual shavings coming of parts and into your engine. Good luck

I would try cleaning and lubricanting all moving parts with lithium grease or just grease period. This includes hood hinges. Try to avoid WD-40 as it is not a lubricant. What it sounds like to me is the hood latch spring is tired and needs replacing. Also you may want the check the hood bump stops. They provide upwards force on the hood, keeping it from moving while driving. They also provide the same upwards force when popping the hood open.

If so then that's a first, sorry brother. All that really needs to be done is provide some type of drag from the visor to the helmet body where it rotates. You could even use hot glue to add a rubber bump that provides friction between the two.